Another Irish Veg farm has closed. Who’s next?

Another vegetable grower has gone out of business. This time it’s one of the largest carrot producers in the country, supplying nearly 12% of the island’s carrots.

Hughes Farming and Agriculture, a major operator employing 45 staff, has closed its doors overnight and declared bankruptcy. Watch this week’s Instagram video on the topic here. 

How can this be? And where will we be if we continue down this road?

In the early 1990s there were over 600 commercial vegetable growers in Ireland.

As of last week there were 74. Now there are 73.

The sector is in serious trouble. Why?

There are many factors, but the biggest is simple: the price paid for produce by supermarkets versus the cost of producing it.

Since 2010, inflation and wage costs have increased dramatically. Vegetable production is hugely labour-intensive. The reality is that the price paid for vegetables has actually decreased since 2003, while the cost of producing them has soared.

In 2003 the minimum wage in Ireland was €6.35. Since then it has increased by 123%.

Yet the price paid to farmers for their produce has fallen. That is not sustainable Supermarket pricing and buying practices have played a major role in bringing us to this point.

So we need to ask ourselves an honest question:

Are we comfortable seeing all our vegetable growers disappear?

Ireland today imports over 84% of its fruit and vegetables. Are we happy for that to reach 100%? Because if we continue as we are, that is exactly where we are heading.

And it’s not just pricing.

Vegetable growers now face the increasing risks of climate instability. This year we have not ploughed a single field yet because of relentless and unprecedented rain.

Why would anyone choose to take on that risk, for returns that often don’t even cover the cost of production? I see it on our own farm every year.

Growing vegetables can be a loss-making enterprise. The only reason we can continue is because we have our own retail arm, which gives us some control over where the small profits in the business are allocated. 

Without that, we simply could not keep the farm going.

But it should not be like this.

Supermarket price wars, loss-leading vegetables, deregulation, and consumer buying habits all play their part.

The work is hard, physical and relentless. The thanks are few. Yet what we do is fundamental. It is about food security.

There will be very little we can do with iPhones if we run out of food.

And perhaps the saddest thing is that we have reduced food to something it was never meant to be: a plastic-wrapped commodity, sold as cheaply as possible, offered up on the altar of unrestrained capitalism.

Food should be a celebration of who we are.

So what happens now?

What happens to the 45 employees who worked there?
What happens to the supply of local food?
What happens to the skill and expertise built up over decades?

We can still take action.

We can choose to support Irish growers — not just when their produce is on discount, but when it reflects the true cost of producing real food.
We can support local farmers, farm shops, markets, and box schemes.
We can visit farms, go on farm walks, and learn what is involved in producing food.

There is a lot we can do.

I just hope it is not too late.

This year we begin our 20th growing season, and I find myself wondering what it will bring.

As always, thank you for your support.

It truly makes all the difference.

Kenneth

When they are gone they are gone… and a great discussion this week…

Just this week I had the privilege of being invited to a panel discussion and the Launch of the “GIY story” which is aired on RTE every Tuesday.  It was a very interesting discussion between Mick Kelly (GIY founder), Pippa Hacket, former minster for the departure of Agriculture, Paul Brophy the largest broccoli grower in Ireland and me.

What is the future of Irish horticulture and food? Or in fact is there a future in Irish horticulture? These were the questions being addressed.  There is little doubt that supermarket food culture has been responsible for the devastation for the horticultural industry in Ireland the exact numbers of commercial growers in Ireland (numbers supplied by Bordbia) has reduced from just over 600 growers in 2000 to 74 growers today.

That is a shocking contraction, the bottom line is clear and stark.  The pricing that has been forced on farmers over the last 26 years has caused this exodus. Primary produce is always the first in the firing line when it comes to discounts and has often and is still used today as a loss leader to lure consumers into large supermarket stores.

You cannot argue with making food more affordable and cheaper, but I would argue there are few industries that are forced to accept a price less than the cost of production, it is not right.

This too is a story of the powerful and the powerless. When any large retail organisation has massive market share it can put undue pressure on small suppliers who in truth have little option but to comply. Thankfully the scales are moving at least a little in the right direction, and it seems the crisis in the Irish veg growing sector maybe the last straw that is at last offering a little protection.

None of this is helped by the “Fake farm” nonsense that is still practiced today, this too is a mechanism to hand the power to the supermarkets. Take “Farrells” in one well known discounter, this lovely Irish family name has been placed on packs to give the impression that it is a real farm, IT IS NOT.

So it is with this backdrop that we went to the fields this week to dig the last of the parsnips, in the unrelenting cold and wet, not at all ideal conditions. To be fair, we did get a break and when we started digging it was actually dry. We have had nearly two full dry days in the last 60, who said it rains all the time in Ireland.

We are in an organic programme with Teagasc and they have kindly given us a weather station, (which I have yet to set it up, in fact when I am finished writing this that is exactly what I am going to do) once set up we will have an accurate local record of rainfall amounts from now on, it should prove for interesting reading, and maybe we will start to see in real local time the impact that man-made climate change is having on our local weather systems.

As always thank you for your support, supermarkets won’t miss you, but we will.

Kenneth

Where have all the vegetable growers gone?

Bordering our farm on all sides are fields of grass, there are no crops, no vegetables, but there are cows and there is grass. But where have all the vegetable growers gone? It used to be part of our culture and our heritage and more important than that we used to produce our own food, today over 70% of our fruit and veg is imported and some reports put it as high as 83%. There are approximately 60 commercial field scale vegetable producers left in Ireland

That means the majority of the fruit and veg we eat here in Ireland is now grown abroad. What happened to cause this? 

There are many reasons most probably. But one reason stands out above all others, the constant race to the bottom to give the cheapest possible price to the consumer by supermarkets has had a big part to play. Loss leading of fresh Irish produce over the years has not been kind to the vegetable farmer and you can’t really blame farmers for getting out of the business. 

It is a labour intensive business and it is difficult to attract people into a job that typically cannot compete with wages that other industries offer, and yet we must but the sad fact is that the end product, the fresh carrot or parsnip, does not pay the bills. 

This is something we have seen on our farm for many years. Our farm loses money and if it was not for you our customers and our retail business we would not survive as an independent entity. 

I still figure we need to keep going, need to keep growing, need to persist, it may well be the definition of madness and certainly doing the same thing and expecting different results is definitely that. 

It is a fraught endeavour to be involved in, and these days there is also the added uncertainty of climate change, which is bearing down hard and fast on all of us. But when you are out in the fields and your product is at the mercy of the weather you have much less control. 

All in all, it doesn’t paint a very positive picture, and yet, I love growing organic food, growing local food, and supporting other local organic farmers. There are certain glimmers of hope all round, your support for us, is one massive beacon. Younger people 

So, we will keep banging the drum and keep marching on, to what end I am not sure, but as we embark on our 20th growing season, I am hopeful for the future of local organic produce. 

As always thank you for your support it makes every difference. 

Kenneth

A serious question, and a great bunch of people…


It’s been an interesting week. On Sunday I went with a group of Irish organic farmers to the UK to see a bunch of British organic farmers, it was a great trip some truly lovely people so open and willing to share. The highlight was a visit to Riverford farm and packing facility, an inspiring operation centred on sustainable food and fairness.


The reality of this fair equitable and sustainable approach to business, one we also have embedded in our own farm and operation here in Galway is the struggle to be profitable. Profitability is an essential facet of any business that wants to survive and reinvest.


I spoke to one farmer who farms over 100 acres of potatoes and carrots, he is lucky he is a Riverford supplier and so has protection from the outside forces of supermarket buyers, but even in this relatively protected environment he struggles.


So how if a farmer like that or like our own farm which gets preferential treatment and pricing and is using all the latest equipment and mechanisation but is trying to farm sustainably cannot make ends meet, what chance does a supermarket farmer supplier have?


This is a serious question, and as long as I have been banging on about it here, there is little real progress being made. The fundamental problem is that fresh food is classed as valueless, it is used as loss leader fodder, something that is used as a ploy to get consumers in the door, and once in, the supermarket machine gets us to spend on ultra processed rubbish that has higher margins. It is wrong.
If we want a fair world, a world where we can eat well, a world where veg producers can continue in business, a world where farmers are rewarded for protecting the environment, paying fairly, and growing chemical free food, then we need to vote with our wallets, it is plain and simple I am afraid.


We have been doing all of the above for 20 years, and this may be the first year where we will not have ended the year further in debt. Ironically it looks very much like our farm again this year will not be profitable, or at the very best at a stretch we may break even. This after the very best growing season we have ever had.
The reality is wages have gone up and up, costs of production have gone up and up, delivery, packaging, all the other stuff Whilst veg prices have not. Sure food inflation is absolutely real and yes the supermarket shop has gone up, but not fresh food, no this has remained relatively static, it’s all the other processed products that have increased in price, hence the decimation of the Irish horticultural industry over the last 20 years.


And here is the other bugbear of mine, we from next week will only have Irish apples on sale, from Richard Galvin in County Waterford, we pay much more than imported for these but will support him over imported, the same as we do for Irish onions from Beechlawn organic farm. (See how many Irish onions and apples you see on supermarket shelves).

I went into a supermarket yesterday and all I saw was imported apples on the shelf. The reason: they are cheaper to buy, we know as we import produce also, we know the pricing and how it works. (We will always grow/buy or support Irish over imported when Irish is available)
So, I would like to say the outlook is hopeful, the future is bright, and God knows we need hope and a positive outlook now more than ever with all the issues in the world.


There was a definite sense of positivity on our trip to the UK earlier this week, hopefully the positive energy will keep flowing.


As always thank you for your support, without it we would definitely have gone by the wayside a long time ago.
Kenneth

Fake Farms, what do you think…

What do “Egan’s” and “Farrell’s” have in common?

They are all brand names used on supermarket packed own label fruit and veg. They give you the impression that they are family farms, BUT THEY ARE NOT.  They are marketing mechanisms, to make us feel warm and happy that we are supporting these assumed lovely family farms.

We are working hard on our Real farm to get the autumn harvest out and the conditions are favourable; this is the same in the remaining Irish vegetable farms up and down the country the likes of Beechlawn Organic farm, or McCormacks Family farm, or Philip Dreaper’s farm in Offaly where we get our Irish carrots, or Richard Galvin in Clashganny organic farm who supplies our organic Irish apples, and many, many more.

These family names used in some supermarkets give the impression there is a real farm with a family name behind the carrots, or tomatoes on their shelf. I recently went to check this out in a large Retailer.

In their fruit and veg section I was convinced that “Farrell’s” which was labelled on much of their Irish produce was a family farm and this family were producing a wealth of produce. At least at first glance that was my impression. I’m in the veg growing business I am a grower and understand a little of how these things work and I was taken in by the misleading advertising.

As I looked a little closer it seemed that my original assumption was not at all correct. “Farrell’s” is not a real farm; it is a marketing tool created by the supermarket to give the consumer that warm homely glow of things being done right.

Does it matter?

Well, I think it does, firstly, this is misleading, you are led to believe the produce is coming from “Farrell’s”, and it is not.  

The second interesting point that is worth considering is that this brand allows supermarkets or more frequently large pack houses and distribution centres, to take in produce from multiple farms and blend it into packs, so the carrots may be coming from multiple suppliers and you or I will never know.  This practice is now frequently called “blending”.

This is very helpful for large retailers as it gives it them the balance of power when it comes to price negotiation, and the ultimate flexibility to choose whose carrots or apples to put into their bag.

When the grower is hidden, he has less power to negotiate a fair price and as with all own branded products on supermarket shelves they are cheaper. It is this pricing structure that has done the damage to growers all over Ireland over the last twenty years.

As always with your support our real Farm continues to grow and our support for other REAL growers can be fair and transparent.

Thank you.

Kenneth

PS Thank you to everybody who donated to our Gaza appeal during the week, I am waiting on final confirmation but the total donated is looking like it was €2380, so thank you so much to everybody, we will be topping this up with the 50% of €1190 making the total donation we will make to the UNICEF Gaza appeal €3570. We will confirm this early next week and be making the donation straight away.

I have had enough, have you?

The model of loss leading on fresh produce needs to stop, how is it that the cheap ultra processed rubbish food is not cheap, this is food that isn’t even food, why is it that our most valuable food, the real food actually grown in fields is sold at prices that are unsustainable?

During the week I had the honour of talking on a panel at the Climate Carnival on the future of food in Ireland. One of the speakers was the largest broccoli grower in Ireland, and he was very clear in conveying his opinions on supermarkets, and it was a damning verdict. The behaviour of supermarkets over the last 20 years has decimated the horticultural industry in Ireland. There are maybe only 60 growers left in Ireland growing field scale vegetables.

When the skills and infrastructure that provide us with local food are gone they are gone for good (just looked at what happened to the sugar beet industry in Ireland). There are very few people interested in getting into commercial veg growing and why would you? For low returns? For the hard work? For the unpredictability of the climate and then to be pressurised and squeezed by supermarket buyers that hold all the power. That is some thanks for providing our critical nourishment.

The truth of the fact is the supermarkets use fresh produce loss leaders to get shoppers in the door, and there is no escaping the fact that this squeezes the primary producer it always does, always.

Fresh veg for 49c, it is an illusion to think that food can be grown for this. The reality is that whilst these prices may be perceived as good by the consumer the long-term viability of these offerings is absolutely unsustainable, and we will pay in the long run. Not only does this desperate pricing model embed the idea that fresh produce is virtually worthless, but it also reduces the bargaining power farmers have when they come to renegotiate growing contracts in the following year.

If we lose anymore veg growers in Ireland there will be no horticultural industry left. We simply cannot afford to, if you consider food security, it is so important and with the climate in free fall, being able to grow as much food as we can here in Ireland is critical.

Not only do the supermarkets not play fair they also impose quite frankly ridiculous ultra-tight specifications, meaning vegetables must look a certain way and be of a certain size or they are rejected. For the sake of all that is sane, this needs to be stopped immediately. The model of loss leading on fresh produce needs to stop, that is the bottom line. Our most valued commodity, the stuff that sustains our life force, that can be a force for good needs to be protected and celebrated, not beaten down until it is no more.

As always thank you for your support for our farm and the farmers we support

Kenneth

Irish organic apples….. There are only 35 commercial apple growers left in Ireland

Some 95 per cent of apples eaten in Ireland were grown elsewhere. Today there are only 35 full-time commercial apple growers in Ireland, down from 50 in 2017. And 40 per cent of all the apples grown here are Bramley cooking apples. (link to Irish Times article https://www.irishtimes.com/food/2025/09/06/the-secret-world-of-irish-apples-why-are-they-so-juicy-and-why-do-we-import-most-of-those-we-buy).

There were over 400 Irish commercial veg growers in the 90s, today that number is just 60, and we are one of those. We have just had the first delivery of Organic Irish Elstar apples from Richard Galvin in Waterford, and I have to say they are some of the finest apples we have ever received, they are amazing, well-done Richard.

We are serious about supporting Irish suppliers, as you may know we grow loads of our own organic veg, but we also support a wide range of other Irish organic growers. We I believe have the distinct advantage of being both a grower and a retailer, we get to see both sides of the field (no pun intended, oh dear..) so to speak. In fact, it can seem quite weird some days sitting in a meeting with our main fresh buyer Anna and our farm manager Emmanuel, and discovering that nobody will end up happy, not enough for the farm and not enough to run the retail business, and not enough to compete with the crazy discounted prices of supermarkets.

But the key difference between us and the general run of the mill supermarkets is that we actually do what we say. So instead of putting smiling Irish farmers all over their lovely supermarket walls maybe they should back that up by actually properly supporting Irish producers and paying fair prices and buying more Irish produce when it is available at a fair price.

We will always buy Irish first and foremost, always, and we always do. To be honest even when it is more of a pain than a gain and that sometimes too can have an impact on perceived value, because it is always, always more expensive to buy. One thing I know for sure is this, we have tonnes and tonnes of Irish organic produce right now, quite literally and we certainly have Irish apples and not only from one Irish organic farmer but two. I could list out all the other Irish farmers that we partner with or buy from, but that might be boring, but do you know what? I think I will anyway, because it annoys and upsets me that we work so hard, and supermarkets get to do whatever they want and present this idea of being the biggest Irish supporters when it just is not true, and they get away with it because they have all the power, (I think we have seen enough of what people with power do in the world today and how much havoc that can wreck on our people and planet, you know who I am talking about here)

So here goes in no particular order: (So these growers are not only Irish, but also all organic too) in total 18 Irish organic farmers.

Joe Kelly, Mayo – cucumbers, yellow courgettes, radishes, lettuce, coriander, parsley, French beans

Philip Dreaper, Offaly – carrots, beetroot

Cameron – Battlemount organic farm, Kildare, potatoes and apples juice.

Richard Galvin, Waterford – apples, apple juice, apple cider vinegar

Audrey and Mick, Galway – parsley, chard, salad mix, rocket, spinach

Padraigh and Una, Beechlawn, Galway – fennel, spinach, onions, cabbages, celery, leeks, beetroot, scallions.

Darragh Donnelly, Dublin – cherries, apples

Banner Berries, Clare – blueberries

Culinary Microherbs, Dublin – MicrogreensGarryhinch, Offaly – exotic mushrooms

McArdle, Antrim – chestnut, portobello mushrooms

Roy Little – leeks

Alison, Slieve Bloom organics, scallions, radish.

Oranmore Farm, Raman – occasionally, French beans, salad mix

Sloe hill Farm – occasionally, herbs (basil, parsley)

Paul Brophy, Kildare, Broccoli

Emmett Dunne, Carrots

Green Earth Organics farm, Kale, broccoli, bunched carrots, parsnips, swede, leeks, spinach, lettuce, salad, onions, celeriac, celery, beetroot, courgettes, cucumbers, tomatoes and more.

So, you see, your support makes a very real difference to us, to Richard (our apple grower) to Emmanuel (our farm manager), to the planet and to all the other farmers that depend on your orders to keep the produce rolling in off organic Irish fields.

As always thank you for continuing to support us.

Kenneth.

Over €400 m worth of vegetables imported…

Over €400 million worth of vegetables were imported into Ireland in 2023, that is an increase of 17% in value and 6% in volume since 2022.

Last week we reviewed our farm accounts, and the picture painted was not one that brought joy to the heart, it rarely is unfortunately. The fundamentals of growing vegetables means that the price paid does not cover the costs of production, so far this year we are carrying a significant loss on our farm.

Whilst we as a nation seem to be importing more and more fresh produce we are losing more and more of our growers. There is no escaping the fact that as the industry has been left vulnerable and right on the edge by the price paid by supermarket buyers. Smaller growers have exited the industry, and this has been compensated for by the larger grower here in Ireland.

However, this is no longer the case as we all have heard the familiar story at this stage as the cost of inputs has risen over the last number of years and the decline of people wanting to work in the industry is critical. A number of bigger growers have also closed their doors for good. It is not an unreasonable path to take as why would you stay in business when you are losing money, and you have very little control over your income as prices are set by external buyers. These import figures come at the same time as our minister for agriculture states “it is important to consider agrifood imports in the context of corresponding exports.

Ireland recorded a total agri-food trade surplus of more than €5 billion in 2023”. This means we exported lots and lots of meat and dairy and imported lots of vegetables and fruit, but interestingly we also imported lots of cereal based animal feed to generate this trade surplus.

But our high reliance on imports when it come to our vegetable supply means that when there are shortages as a result of drought or other climate shocks which are getting more and more likely due to climate change then we will not be at the top of the priority list when it comes to supply. Right now, we are starting our farm planning for next year. We will also be talking to other Irish growers that supply us with produce and agreeing volumes and prices, for next year, prices that are always fair.

Since 2006 when we sold our first locally grown organic vegetable the planning of our farm has always been something that has been very close to my heart, but after 19 years of growing vegetables with only a handful of those years break even, it does leave you scratching your head when you just can’t make the numbers add up. We have always persevered and will continue to do so, but we can only ever do this and support the nearly 40 people that currently work in our farm and business with your support.

So as always thank you.

National radio interview and a few thoughts…

During the week I was asked to come on the Sean Moncrieff show to talk about the supermarket practice of loss leading with fresh produce. Only 1% of farms in Ireland now grow veg, there are only 60 commercial growers left in the country down from over 400 in 1998.   

You can listen to the interview here

Not as glamorous as talking from a box in the middle of the field I think, but we gave it a go anyway!  

And if you are inclined to listen to my rant from a box in a polytunnel CLICK HERE

Here’s an example to illustrate exactly why this is happening, a few years ago most of the celery and scallions during the season were grown in Ireland, now that situation has changed dramatically. This year there has been a massive decline in Irish grown celery and scallions on supermarket shelves, and why is this? The bottom-line growers, who are struggling to cover production costs (they have gone up by 43% in the last 3 years!) could not negotiate a very small cost increase, and we are talking cents single digit here, as a result the farmers decided to stop growing the produce.

Two years ago one of the biggest sprout growers in the country closed after three generations due to lack of supermarket support.

The irony of this situation is that as supermarkets continue to practice squeezing the primary producer here in Ireland for short term gain, they must look to source the produce elsewhere.  But there is pressure on growing systems everywhere due to climate change and as a result they can end up paying more for imported produce.

Because after all, with the disastrous growing year we had last year, if you cannot put a little aside in the good years how do you survive the bad years and if your only outlet is the supermarkets, and they won’t help out then there is no other viable choice but to stop growing food.

We, who once were a nation of food producers and vegetable growers have let our primary vegetable growing industry virtually disappear.

I strongly feel that it is a very sad reflection on this retail model and the mindset and expectation it encourages in us as consumers that fresh produce is worthless. Not only does it make the craft of growing food financially unviable, but it is highly demoralising to growers to be told that their produce is essentially worthless.

At the very same time that fresh produce is used to get consumers in supermarket doors by devaluing it to nothing, you have a production and retail industry that thrive on making high margins on junk food. This food, ultra-processed rubbish, is nutritionally worthless and is making us sick and lines most retailers’ shelves.

The solution is simple, primary producers need to be paid more for the produce they grow, this can come about through the celebration of fresh produce, food that will make us well and healthy and in the long run ironically will save us all money and will save an industry.

As always thanks for your support.

Kenneth

PS We have amazing Irish organic produce now, from our own farm, kale Green, Black (Cavolo Nero), Purple, salad, lettuce and courgettes, we have Irish produce from Joe Kelly in Mayo, Padraigh Fahy in Beechlawn, Marc Michel in Wicklow, Enda Hoban in Galway, Mick and Audrey in Millhouse, John Mc Ardle for mushrooms, and so much more.  See our IRISH SECTIOH HERE

No more olive oil…?

A couple of days ago, I had a very interesting conversation with Nicolas who supplies us with amazing, single estate organic Greek olive oil. He came to tell me due to the impact of climate change his farmers do not have any oil for him for the rest of this year, and olive oil could become extremely scarce as the year progresses. This was to be his last delivery to us. 

 
He also advised that we try and source some oil now from a reputable supplier as the price has inflated so much that there will be sleights of hand in the olive oil industry, and what we think we are getting may not be what we are actually getting.

Our food system has become so convoluted, and as climate change puts more pressure on our production systems, more and more corners will be cut as retailers and farmer get equally desperate to survive. 

Pressure to change our food system is coming and must come, but just this week gone by, we have seen protests in Germany from farmers who are not happy with the pushing of an environmental agenda. I feel their pain, for years governments and the food industry has been encouraging a certain way of doing business, and now that must change. 

This change is inevitable, but it will require a very steady hand on the tiller, and a fundamental change in mindset when it comes to primary food production. An agenda no politician will touch.  Who wants to be the advocate for paying a little more for our food, when our whole system is based on the lowest possible price and not value, because low price does not always mean value.  

There, is no question that the supermarket model devalues fresh food. 

We have just finished the planning for the year ahead and looking at the performance of the farm in 2023 has been a depressing affair. 

I feel we may not have paid ourselves a fair price for the food we sell.  If we do pay our farm more, we will not make enough to run our retail business, as we must keep our prices as low as we can to try and compete with supermarkets, it is a tough space to be in.

But there is no question now in my mind as we head into 2024 with fresh purpose that our farm needs to be fairly compensated for the food it grows. There is a cost to produce high value food.

But there is also a very real, unseen cost attached to the selling of 1 Litre of olive for less than €4. This is the unseen, disconnected cost, the price of a level of agricultural industrialisation reliant on chemicals and ultra processing that removes any remnants of the original olives from the olive oil, all the goodness that was once there is gone.  This is the price we pay for our modern-day food system.

As climate breakdown amplifies, we may find ourselves increasingly seeing empty supermarket shelves where we expect the food to be.

Of course, there is a different path we can thread here, one that is brighter, better, filled with wholesome, chemical free nutrition, one that protects, enhances, helps and does right by our people, health, and planet. That is the course we are holding steady to.

Thank you for being with us on this one.

Kenneth